The trick to handling jumping is to carefully manage your dog’s behaviour so that they have few opportunities to jump on people, and when they do, ensuring they are not rewarded. At the same time, you need to teach your pup what to do instead of jumping to get attention. Below are some helpful tips! 

Teach your pup an alternative to jumping 

If your dog approaches you and attempts to jump up, immediately turn your back on them; no touching, pushing or scolding. When they have four paws on the floor again, you may turn back to them and quietly praise. If they approach you and choose to sit, give them a treat. 

When you or a guest enter the house, you can encourage them to “Find your toy!” When they find the toy and bring it over, reward them with play and attention. This helps channel your dog’s energy and gives them an alternative way to greet people! 

When your dog approaches you, ask for a “sit,” or “down,” before they have a chance to jump. Then reward them with a treat or play. If you have to ask more than once, turn away and ignore your dog or walk out of the room and close the door for a couple minutes. 

Teach the concept of “Off.” When your dog jumps on you, say “Off” and back up two steps until your dog’s paws touch the ground. If your dog’s paws remain on the floor, praise them. Then redirect them by saying “Find your toy.” If the dog jumps again, repeat the above or do a time-out. 

On your walks, ask your dog to sit whenever anyone approaches. Have your pup sit in front of at least 10 new people this week. When your dog sits, reward them with a treat or toy. They are learning that the way to greet humans is by sitting in front of them. The exercises below are also excellent at teaching this! 

Management techniques 

“Ignore” your dog, meaning to make no eye contact, say nothing, and stand still. Turning your back to them can also be effective. This helps to take away the attention they are trying to receive when they are jumping up. 

“Get them moving” If your dog is on a leash, try to walk forward with them, then turn 180 degrees away to get them moving instead of staying stationary and jumping up. 

“Redirect their focus” with a toy, treat or verbal cue. If your dog is familiar with verbal cues, try using “down,” “sit,” or “watch me,” immediately followed with a treat and attention. 

“Ground” the leash by gently stepping on it until your dog settles, then release it immediately and reward right away. This will give your dog a little “time-out” indicating that when they are calm, they are rewarded. The release part is important! If you don’t release them once they settle, they won’t get the chance to learn that calm behaviour wins freedom. You can also do time–outs in a crate if your dog is crate-trained, or in a safe dog-proofed room (free from “chewables” if your dog is in a chewing phase). 

Check out our blog for more training and enrichment tips! 

If this information was helpful, please help us continue to educate about pet health and well-being by making a donation. 

The post How to handle jumping appeared first on Ontario SPCA and Humane Society.

In this blog, we share tips to increase your dog’s familiarity with cats, as well as develop their recall and cue training. This will encourage them to pay attention to you during an exciting situation, and help you train them not to chase cats.  

Good behaviour begins at home  

Before you introduce your dog to a new family member, such as a cat, be sure to keep them safely separated for the first few weeks.  Slow introductions, such as allowing them to smell each other through a fenced space, like a baby gate, are recommended.  

You can also allow your dog to smell cat-related items prior to the introduction, such as cat toys or bedding. This will help your dog get familiarized with the cat’s scent. Keeping your dog on a leash may also be a good idea, in case they get overwhelmed with excitement at the presence of the new cat.  

You should give your cat a space within your house that is off-limits for your dog until they are acclimated to each other. Make sure to never leave a dog and cat alone together unattended. It is also important to always use positive reinforcement to reward good behaviour. For example, give your canine companion a treat whenever they remain calm around the cat, sit when asked, or don’t engage with the cat. This will encourage your dog’s respect towards their new furry family member.   

Read more about introducing dogs and cats here on our blog.  

Work on canine cues  

You can use treats for both your cat and dog to keep them focused on you instead of each other in those first few meetings. Practice basic verbal cues with your dog such as stay, come, and leave it. You can also try clicker training as a way to create a positive bridge between your dog and your cat. Many dogs respond very well to clicker training when done correctly.   

If you find your dog is too enthusiastic with your new cat, consider speaking with an experienced professional positive reinforcement-based dog trainer or behaviourist. They can help you to reinforce your basic training and provide suggestions to keep both of your furry friends comfortable around each other.  

Click to learn more about choosing a dog trainer.  

In the neighbourhood  

Even if your dog is being respectful of cats in your household, always keep your dog on a leash when outside the home. This is not only in case they see a community cat, but for the general safety of your dog, as well.  

With proper training and introductions, many dogs can learn to respect and even become good friends with their new furry family member!  

The post Can my dog be trained not to chase cats? appeared first on Ontario SPCA and Humane Society.

For tips on how to prepare before your furry friend arrives, read this blog! 

Bringing your puppy home 

• Before entering your home, make sure your puppy has had time to explore the outside area on a leash. It’s also important you make sure your puppy has time to go to the bathroom.  
• Keep your puppy leashed when introducing them to their new home environment, both inside and out. Allow them to explore one area at a time rather than giving them the full run of the home right away. When introducing them to the inside it can be a good idea to walk them directly to their space/bed and reward them, so they know it is their area. Then allow them to explore the house at their own pace.   

Introducing other family members 

• If you have any other animals or children in your home, it is best to allow the puppy to explore new surroundings first before introducing them to others. 
• Any introductions should be on a leash with positive reinforcement. Treats provided during this time can decrease anxiousness and create a successful first meet and greet! Socialization is important and encouraged during your puppy’s development.  
• Read our blogs on Dog to Dog introductions and Dog to Cat introductions for more tips on furry friend introductions! 

Pet proofing 

• Once your new puppy enters your home, their curiosity will kick in and they will want to start exploring. Pet proofing your home is recommended to keep your pet safe while they learn their new surroundings. You can pet proof your home using a baby gate to keep your puppy in a safe, supervised area. This way you’re making sure there is nothing around that a puppy can eat or get into. Some other steps to pet proof your home include keeping the garbage secured, plants out of reach, and cleaning products and medications put away. 
• A crate or puppy-proofed room is recommended to keep your puppy from feeling overwhelmed when they are alone. This will also reduce any destructive puppy behaviours while they take time to learn appropriate in-home behaviours with you.  
• Crate training can be done slowly over time. For the first few days of having your puppy home, start off with leaving them alone for small increments of time. Then slowly increase the length of time left alone as your puppy acclimates to their space. It is not recommended to leave your puppy alone with another pet during this transition period.  

Supervision 

• Supervision is always recommended with a new puppy. Accidents may occur during house training, and it will take time to learn. Watch our video on house training tips. 
• Take your puppy out for frequent bathroom breaks during the day and especially right after they eat or take a nap. This will decrease any accidents inside.  
• If an accident does occur, take your puppy outside immediately and reward them when they do go outside. If needed, increase the amount of bathroom breaks until your puppy begins to demonstrate house training behaviours.  

Don’t forget your new puppy needs regular daily exercise, training, and enrichment for their development. Daily walks and training classes are recommended! 

For more tips on the first week home with your new puppy read this blog. 

The post Adopting a puppy: What to expect appeared first on Ontario SPCA and Humane Society.

Fortunately, adult dogs, even those who’ve had a disadvantaged start in life, can learn an appropriate time and place to go! By following the 10 steps below, you’ll be well on your way to having a house-trained adult dog. 

Step 1. Supervise your dog inside 

How thoroughly and consistently you watch your dog when they are inside will determine how successful you are at preventing accidents, and how quickly your dog is house-trained. Supervision means watching your dog at ALL times.  

If you can’t give your dog your undivided attention, use the “umbilical cord” technique. For example, when you’re watching TV, have your dog on leash and tie the opposite end around your belt or waist. The leash should be short enough to alert you if your dog makes a move to eliminate, but long enough so they can lie or sit at your feet. When you’re in the house, but not watching your dog, they should be confined as described in Step 2. 

Step 2. Confine your dog when you are unable to supervise them 

If you can’t supervise your dog, leave them confined in a crate, x-pen (a metal exercise pen for dogs that comes in a variety of sizes), bathroom or other secure space small enough that they won’t want to eliminate. Baby gates can also be used to block off a small portion of a room. In the beginning, your dog should only have enough room to stand up, turn around and lie comfortably on their bed. The reasoning is that dogs are less likely to soil where they sleep or eat.

Step 3. If you leave the house for longer than your dog can “hold it,” think of alternatives 

It’s important to note that while some dogs can go all day without eliminating, other dogs find it physically impossible – particularly elderly, young and small dogs, or dogs with a medical problem. If it’s not possible for your dog to hold it for the time you are away from the home, have a neighbour, pet sitter or dog walker drop by during the day as needed to let them out, or consider day boarding your dog at a reputable kennel. This is also helpful if your dog hasn’t yet learned to hold it for longer periods.

If this is not possible, confine them to an area where toilet behavior is acceptable, so your dog does not make soiling mistakes around the house. This larger confinement area, or doggy playroom, should have a doggy toilet in the furthest corner away from your dog’s bed and water. Only use your small confinement area when you are in the house and available to take your dog outside regularly. That way they can learn to hold it when you are at home. 

Step 4. If your dog already eliminates in their confined space, use a new one 

If your dog is currently eliminating in their crate or other confined space, try to create a new living area with no former associations for your dog as a place to eliminate. For example, if they have been using a crate in the kitchen with a pillow for bedding, change to an x-pen in the living room padded with a blanket or thick layer of newspapers. Help your dog adjust to their new space by leaving them alone there for brief periods while eating meals or treats. 

Step 5. Establish a routine and stick to it 

Make your dog’s elimination needs more predictable by setting up regular feeding (remove the food between meals), sleeping and waking times. Keep an elimination log (with times) over 10 days so you can start anticipating your dog’s needs before they have the opportunity to make a mistake. At the same time make sure you take your dog outside as soon as they wake, after they eat or drink, after play, before leaving home, as soon as you arrive home, and before bed – at a minimum! 

Step 6. Show your dog where to eliminate 

Go with your dog on leash when they go outside. When they go in the correct spot, immediately reward their decision with a super yummy treat and praise. You want your dog to think, “I can’t wait to do my business in the yard and get treats!” 

Step 7. Look for clues your dog needs to go outside 

Dogs don’t always bark or paw at the door to be let outside. Common clues your dog needs to eliminate include acting restless such as pacing, whining, sniffing, leaving the room, and circling just before eliminating – but many clues are very small and unique to your pet. 

Step 8. Oops! Don’t punish accidents

If you do catch your pet in the act (mid-stream), you can interrupt them by calmly saying their name or walking over to them to then rush them outside. Reward them as soon as they finish! Never reprimand or punish your dog if you catch them in the act or find the accident afterwards. All it will do is make your dog afraid of you and/or eliminating in front of you – and make house-training much more difficult. Instead, reread this article to determine any steps you missed – and keep working with your dog to help them succeed! 

Step 9. Remove pet odours completely

Thorough cleaning of areas where your dog has soiled indoors is critical to successful house-training. Areas that smell like urine or feces flash like washroom signs – encouraging your dog to continue soiling in the area. Clean up the accident immediately with an enzyme neutralizing cleaner, available at pet stores. Avoid using chemicals, especially those with strong odours, such as ammonia or vinegar, that don’t eliminate the odour. For washable items, add baking soda to your regular detergent or an enzymatic cleaner. For carpeted areas or upholstery, soak up as much of the urine as possible with newspaper and paper towels. Repeat until the area is barely damp. Rinse the area with clean, cool water and dry again and use an enzymatic cleaner to get rid of the smell. You may need to replace an area of the carpeting if urine soaks into the underpadding and your dog continues to return to the same spot. If your dog soils in a particular room or area, try to block off that area or room from your dog while they are housetraining. 

Step 10. Gradually expand the “safe” area

After you’ve established an inside routine where your dog is either supervised or confined, is taken outside with you on a schedule, and doesn’t have any accidents for a month, slowly start to increase their freedom indoors. For example, if their confined space is a crate, you might begin by moving them to an x-pen or a portion of the kitchen blocked off with baby gates. As your dog proves that they are reliable in the slightly larger area, leave them confined to the whole kitchen. Slowly increase their confinement area until they are reliable within your entire home. If your dog makes a mistake, which is to be expected while they are learning, back up to the last reliable step where they were successful and take it slower. 

Patience and praise bring success

Remember there is no magic time for when your dog will be house-trained. It depends on many factors, including the dog, you, and the situation. Supervise and confine, stick to a schedule, reward them when they go outside, never punish them for making mistakes, and with diligence you can avoid most accidents within a few weeks, if not earlier. 

Not all house-soiling problems are related to a lack of house-training. Consider: 

• Health problems. Some medications, illnesses and infections can contribute to house-soiling. 
• Marking. Male and female dogs can mark territory with urine and feces outside and inside. 
• Submissive urination. Dogs who pee when they meet new people, during greetings or during play may be exhibiting submissive or excitement urination – a confidence issue. 
• Fears/phobias. Loud or frightening noises, such as those made by thunderstorms, can cause dogs to urinate or defecate in fear. 
• Separation anxiety. Dogs with separation anxiety may eliminate a short time after you leave the house (come back to the house in 30 minutes to check if you’re not sure). Consult with a positive reinforcement-based trainer to help resolve your dog’s anxiety. 

For more training tips, visit our blog.  

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Important note: Your dog’s behaviour is trying to communicate something and it’s important to take the time to learn what that is. From there, focus on teaching what behaviours you’d like to see, rather than punishing behaviours you don’t want. 

Jumping up 

If your dog is jumping up and you push them off, or say “off,” or “down,” your dog will perceive 

this as attention, and therefore, as reward. Because our dogs don’t understand good from bad, it all just means they’re getting attention! You can modify this behaviour by ignoring it and turning your body away, or waiting for them to stop, or have all 4 paws on the floor. Be mindful of your environment when trying this technique as it might not be safe around anyone easily injured or knocked over. 

Another way to modify this behaviour is through reinforcement of other behaviours you’d like to see. This could mean asking for a sit, down, or stand cue before your dog begins to jump. Check out this video for training tips on greeting calmly. 

Barking 

Barking is a common behaviour in dogs, and typically communicates a need. Are they thirsty? Hungry? Have their exercise, enrichment, and elimination needs been met? After answering these questions, consider what else your dog could be communicating. 

A few ways you can address this behaviour: 

1. Teach your dog to bark on cue, and then you can teach another cue, such as “stop” or “enough,” to ask your dogs to stop barking. Note: this technique may encourage more barking at first and won’t be suitable for all dogs. 
2.  Don’t yell at your dog for barking – all you’re doing is barking with them. If the behaviour isn’t a danger to anyone, it’s best to ignore it. 
3. Practice other behaviours. When your dog barks, wait 3-5 seconds and then call them to you and give them a reward. This way you’re rewarding the behaviour you want to see and not the barking. 

Pulling on a leash 

Leash training is different for every dog and also depends on your walking goals. Your dog doesn’t always need to be at your heel, especially if you’re going on a walk “for them,” allowing them to sniff and explore.  

Some ways to modify this behaviour include:

1. Plant your feet when they pull on the leash. When they come back to you, begin walking again. This technique may increase frustration for some dogs.
2. Get a longer leash (10 feet) with more space to roam. This makes the walk more comfortable for your dog, and gives you more opportunities to reward them for walking close to you.
3. Choose equipment wisely. Find an appropriately fitting Y-harness that allows for a good range of motion.
4. Exercise does not equal mental exertion. Doing 15-20 minutes of mental enrichment is just as important as a daily walk. You need to keep your dog enriched physically, and mentally. 

Chewing 

Chewing is a natural and normal behaviour used by dogs to self-soothe and relieve stress. It should not be punished. When leaving your dog in their confinement space, for example a crate, kennel or puppy-proof room, provide several chew options. If your dog is chewing an inappropriate item, trade up in value with a new item like a favourite treat or toy. That way your dog won’t see the experience as losing a resource but gaining one. 

Begging 

Dogs are scavengers, so it’s normal for them to wait and search for scraps. If begging is rewarded, this will only increase. The first step is to ignore the behaviour and teach them they won’t receive any reward for it. 

This behaviour can be replaced with a “go to place” cue. The end result is the dog goes to a specific place to lay down and stays there while you’re eating. Another option is to offer a long-lasting reward or chew in their confinement space. This is useful when you can’t be hands on working on a behaviour, or if your attention is elsewhere. It also helps create independence.  

Helping dogs put their best paw forward  

Stay positive and keep practicing behaviours you want to see in your dog! Unfortunately, many dogs end up in shelters due to behaviours that could have been modified with time, patience and positive reinforcement.  

The Ontario SPCA calls those dogs VIPs (Very Important Paws). These are animals in our care who may need a little extra help, including all of the dogs in our care at our Provincial Dog Rehabilitation Centre. The program allows our Animal Behaviour Coordinators to set these buddies up for success in our animal centres using evidence-based training and Fear Free® techniques in conjunction with dedicated animal care teams across the province. 

To learn more about the Ontario SPCA Provincial Dog Rehabilitation Centre, visit ontariospca.ca/dogrehab   

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What causes my dog to have excessive energy at the end of the day? 

Like humans, dogs need mental stimulation, as well as physical exercise to reduce energy levels. If you’re noticing excessive energy from your dog at the end of the day, it could be because you’re satisfying the physical needs of your dog, but not their mental needs. 

How do I keep my dog mentally stimulated? 

One way to keep your dog stimulated is by taking them on multiple walks each day instead of just letting them sniff around in the backyard so they can explore and play. You can also work on training exercises as soon as you get home. Changing up what type of activities you do with your dog can be helpful as well. Instead of just playing tug-of-war or fetch, try introducing rewarding games like an obstacle course, or getting them to sniff out hidden treats or toys. 

It’s also a good idea to give your dog some quiet time inside throughout the day. Providing enrichment activities like Kong-filled treats or a DIY cereal box treat dispenser can give them time to unwind and cool down. 

Does excessive energy depend on the breed of dog? 

We want you to know it’s normal for dogs to have high energy. However, dogs from the sporting, herding, hound, working, and terrier groups were bred to work. This means their energy level is related to them needing and wanting to have a purpose. If you find your dog is becoming destructive inside the home, displaying increasingly anxious behaviours, or is consistently over-aroused, contacting a positive reinforcement-based dog trainer or behaviour specialist to help manage those behaviours is recommended. 

Is there such a thing as too much play? 

There sure is! Too much exercise can increase your dog’s energy levels, so their bodies become accustomed to the amount being provided. This means you’d have to increase exercise time to help burn off that energy. Make sure you manage your dog’s playtime and end it on a positive note. To end playtime, ask your dog to sit, provide a treat to signal to them playtime is over, and continue to reward calm behaviour afterwards. 

While all dogs are different, including these dos and don’ts in your daily routine can help you manage your dog’s energy: 

Do: 

• Provide mental stimulation and exercise 
• Use daily enrichment items and involve your dog’s nose during walks or playtime 

• Try training sessions after a walk or playtime 
• Encourage and positively reward calm behaviour 
• Schedule playtime and end on a positive note 

Don’t: 

• Punish high energy levels or get frustrated 

• Over-exercise without addressing behavioural concerns 
• Put your dog in the yard as a replacement for a walk or exercise 

We hope these tips are helpful to you and your canine friend! For more enrichment tips for your furry and feathered friends, visit our blog.  

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What does my dog’s bark mean? 

It’s important to make sure you know the reasons behind your dog’s bark. It could be territorial, greeting, socially motivated – these reasons are broken down here. 

If it is attention-seeking barking, it’s important to know this behaviour isn’t by accident. This is learned behaviour, even if it wasn’t your intention as a pet parent.  

What to do about the behaviour? 

The important thing with this behaviour is not to reward your dog for barking. Although this may be challenging, the ASPCA advises ignoring the barking .  

To dogs, even scolding or talking to them can be seen as rewarding attention. Instead, use your body language to make it clear to your dog you will not reward their behaviour. This may look like turning away and leaving the room. When your dog stops barking, this is your opportunity to ask him to sit, and provide what he was asking for (attention, play, coming inside/outside). 

Teaching alternative behaviour 

Another method of dealing with this behaviour could be to teach an alternative behaviour. 

For example if your dog is barking at you for attention, work on teaching a sit for attention instead.  Start with when your dog is quiet, ask them to sit. hwen your dog sits, provide lots of attention and even start a play session. Continue this multiple times a day, only giving attention to your dog when they are sitting quietly. 

Finally, you want to make sure you’re regularly seeking out your dog to give him attention when he’s not barking. This could be giving him a treat, verbal praise, or petting. 

We hope you found these tips helpful! For more information on barking behaviours, click here! 

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Why is socialization important? 

Early socialization builds well-rounded, and emotionally healthy dogs. Without it, puppies can grow into fearful, and insecure dogs that lack confidence in unfamiliar or new situations. 

Gently exposing dogs to a wide variety of new people, places, animals, objects, sounds, and smells builds coping skills and the ability to deal with stress from new situations.  

Pandemic puppies are now post-pandemic teenagers in need of socialization to get them back on track to becoming confident dogs who can adapt to new and diverse situations. So, how do you get there?

Setting your dog up for success 

Exploring the world should be fun; don’t forget to encourage your dog’s curiosity and reward them with praise, and high value treats! Even a baby step towards understanding that the mail carrier is a friend, not foe, deserves positive reinforcement. 

Tips to help with socialization  

Provide exposure to other dogs 

Playing and exploring with other dogs is important. These experiences will allow your dog to engage with and observe the actions of other dogs. 

• Take a walk to a dog park. Remain outside of the park and let your dog watch the dogs play and experience the location, sights and smells. 
• Find a credentialed dog school offering socialization classes for adult dogs.  
• Have one-on-one playdates only with well-socialized dogs you know well, like the dog of a friend or a family member. 
• As your dog grows in confidence, you can expose him to more environments and animals.

Stranger danger 

The goal here is to help your dog feel comfortable with a variety of different people they may encounter in your home, walking down the street, or at the park. Meetings with new people should include all ages and cultural backgrounds, men with facial hair, people wearing hoods, hats or sunglasses, uniforms, as well as people using mobility devices like wheelchairs, canes or crutches. 

• If your dog has a particular dislike for people in uniform, take proactive measures such as providing your mail carrier with your dog’s favourite treat and asking them to give one to your dog once they have achieved a calm sit. 
• Sit outside with your dog and watch their reaction to foot traffic, bikes, scooters, skateboards or people with strollers. Do the same with cars, buses, and motorcycles. Provide rewards when they react calmly to reinforce this behaviour. 
• Walk by a seniors’ home parking lot to expose the dog to seniors and mobility devices. If the dog is curious and the senior allows, let the dog sniff the mobility devices.  

Make some noise 

Exposure to different noise is critical for dogs, as a startling experience with noise can trigger fear-based behaviour and endanger the animal. While in training, watch that the level of noise is not frightening to your dog. If it is, turn down the volume or find a similar but less frightening noise. 

• Desensitize your dog to fireworks with dog training sound apps for your phone. Play on a low volume frequently to begin with and gradually increase the sound. 
• Floor buzzers that sound when a dog touches them creates a game that the puppy controls. This is a helpful tool in desensitizing your dog!   

New places 

New places and social situations expose dogs to people and items they might not see on a regular basis. 

• Visit the veterinarian office well in advance of an appointment. Allow your dog to explore and practice a sit on the scale. Ask staff to reward your dog with treats and praise. 
• Visit a pet store during off peak hours, building up to a visit on a busy Saturday. 
• Walking routes become stale to your dog. Alternate walking routes to stimulate your dog’s mind with new sights and smells. 

Never push your dog to conquer a fear. It’s important to remain patient as socialization is a long process. Provide reassurance and praise to celebrate their progress. It’s never too late to expose your dog to new environments, people, and things. With some positive reinforcement, your dog can adjust to the new world they’re living in! 

If you or your dog are struggling with socialization, seek the help of a professional trainer. 

The post Pandemic puppies: Adult dog socialization tips appeared first on Ontario SPCA and Humane Society.

What is resource guarding? 

Resource guarding or “possessive aggression” is a fear of losing valued resources. That resource can range from food to toys, or even your pup’s favourite spot on the couch. Resource guarding is a natural and normal behaviour that should be expected.   

Ancestral wild dogs scavenged and hunted to secure resources, so the instinct to protect resources was of utmost importance. The understanding today is that a dog’s resource guarding can hold both a genetic and potentially learned component. Problems tend to arise when companion animals living in home environments display a large amount of fear that they may lose an item or resource. 

What can resource guarding look like? 

Resource guarding can range in severity and look like anything from a mild posturing, (hovering over an item or stiffening when on a favoured spot) to snarling, snapping and lunging towards a person or another animal that enters their space.

It’s important to read body language and determine how your dog is responding so that we can lessen the fear of losing their valued resource. When we talk about resources it’s important to remember that your dog decides what resources are valuable.  

Body language to look out for: 

• Hovering and stiffening over items, head lowered and often accompanied by “whale eye” (the sclera or whites of eyes showing) and a tight face. 
• Shielding an item with their body 
• Scarfing food or eating very quickly when a person or another animal is in proximity. 
• Sudden stiffness accompanied by:  
  • Growling 
  • Lip lifting 
  • Snarling 
  • Lunging

When does it happen? 

Resource guarding can happen at any time and tends to happen more often during stressful times and events. Events may include family/friends coming over (parties etc.), a new dog or other animal coming into their space, when the dog is overtired or when travelling. It happens when a dog feels a valuable resource may be lost. This can include an item being taken away, or being approached while in a certain place or while they have a certain valued item. While resource guarding is a natural animal behaviour, it’s not a desirable behaviour as it can result in fights between animals and aggression towards humans. It is especially dangerous in a home with small children. 

Common items that trigger resource guarding in dogs are: 

• Food and treats  
• Food bowl (filled or empty) 
• Bones and dog chews 
• Toys (a child’s toy or pet toy) 
• Socks or shoes 
• Space (dog bed, crate, their position on the couch or bed, their feeding area) 
• Their pet parent (from other animals or people) 

 Managing the environment  

Understand that your dog is not acting out of malice but, in fact, a severe fear that they may lose a valued resource. Never resort to punishment – this may increase your dog’s guarding behaviours. Managing resource guarding is all about anticipation and prevention. One of the first things you can do is manage the environment around your dog to prevent aggression and resource guarding:  

• Let your dog eat in peace, put their food down and walk away.  
• If small children are in the home, put up a gate and feed your dog in a separate and secure area.  
• Do not put your hands in the dog food bowl when they are eating. 
• Feed your dog(s) consistently. Do not free feed.  
• It is only after they’ve finished eating and have walked away that you should pick up their food bowls to clean and store between meals.  
• If at any time your dog displays guarding behaviours, stop what you are doing and back away.  
• Store laundry high off the floor and put your clean laundry away immediately so socks or underwear cannot be stolen. 
• Keep items your dog has been known to guard, or think they may guard, out of sight and reach. 
• Ensure your dog has a sanctuary space and the ability to remove themselves from other animals and people. 
• Only offer high value items when your dog is in a safe and comfortable space. 

Training for your dog’s resource guarding 

Resource guarding can be managed and, in many cases, reduced, with appropriate training methods. We recommend working closely with a certified behaviour consultant to work on this behaviour with your dog. 

Important reminders 

Resource guarding is fear based and can be a learned behaviour in many dogs. Do not punish your dog but instead try to understand their fear. Consistent training and positive reinforcement will build your dog’s trust to anticipate good things when you approach them.   

In many cases, dogs eventually become less fearful and leave their food bowl or chew to approach their people. They begin to associate receiving something of high value with the people who care for them. The change in body language is the gauge by which behaviour consultants know if the treatment is progressing as expected. 

We hope you find these tips helpful! If you have any questions or concerns about your specific dog, we encourage you to reach out to a positive reinforcement-based dog  behaviour consultant. 

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In this post, we will share some helpful tips from the ASPCA, with helpful insights on why your dog whines, and how to address excessive whining.  

Why do dogs whine? 

Appeasement Behaviour

Some dogs whine excessively when interacting with people and other dogs, usually while adopting a submissive posture (e.g., tail tucked, body lowered, head down, gaze averted). 

Greeting Behaviour

Some dogs whine during greetings. This kind of vocalization is usually motivated by excitement and may be directed at dogs or people. 

Seeking Attention

Some dogs whine in the presence of their caregivers in order to get attention, rewards or desired objects. 

Anxiety

Some dogs whine in response to stressful situations. In this context, whining sometimes seems involuntary. 

Other Problems That Might Cause Whining 

Separation Anxiety

If your dog only whines just before you leave or during your absence, they may have separation anxiety. If this is the case, your dog will usually display at least one other symptom of the disorder prior to your departure or when left alone, such as pacing, panting, excessive drooling, destruction (especially around doors and windows), urinating or defecating indoors, depression or other signs of distress. 

Read the Ontario SPCA and Humane Society’s blog on How to help a pet with separation anxiety. 

Injury or Medical Condition

Dogs often whine in response to pain or a painful condition. If you notice that your dog vocalizes frequently or has suddenly started to vocalize, it’s important to take them to the veterinarian to rule out medical causes. 

Read the FULL ARTICLE to learn what to do about excessive whining and how to teach hand targeting. 

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